Trip report 4th June to 10th

June 3rd flew from England Via chicago (should have learnt my lesson last year) to Orlando. By the time we got to a hotel (delayed in chicago) it was 12.30 pm (5.30am to us) and we had been travelling for 21hrs. We slept until 4.30 am U.S. time( 4 hrs sleep due to jet lag) and then set of for N.O. at 5 am it took us a further 12 hours driving (with stops for breakfast, lunch and toillet). I tell you this because it stopped us doing a lot of things we wanted to do and visit due to the fact we were worn out - I know our fault. Anyhow.

Monday arrived at Place D,armes around 4.30 pm in torrential rain, went to bought and Umbrella and rain stopped (ha ha). Wanted quick casual meal so went to Coops. I had great Jambalaya %26amp; Dave had good fried Chicken (both under $10 each). Was a bit worried as the FQ was quiet. Went to Donnas Bar to see George French and Miss Germaine Bazzle (bar soon filled up) was worth $10 cover had a great night. What made it special for me and what i think sums up N.O. was on drums was a 17 year Joe Dyson- he has just amazing and someone to watch out for. Free red bean and rice with BBQ chicken as well. Only lasted until 1. am and had to go sleep.

Tuesday. 7 am had coffee on our balcony whilst listening to the chimes from St. Louis Cathedral. Had a walk around Jackson Square 7.30 am - hadn,t really noticed how beautifull it was before maybe because it was so quiet i could appreciate it. Clover grille for breakfast, had such a good laugh with the staff in there we ended up going back for a hamburger for lunch (also we didnt want to walk far). Walked around the FQ for a couple of hours until the heat and tiredness got to us and we went back and sat in hotel couryard (in shade) Oliviers Creole Restaurant (far end of Decatur towards canal) I had soft shell crab, with 2 cheese risotto %26amp; crawfish cream sauce (yum yum). Very good service and good prices. Went to Spotted cat on Frenchman saw the All stars (and a few local characters )

Wednesday. Up early again (usual walk around Jackson Square) went to Croissant D%26#39;or and had wonderfull blueberry filled croissants and Cafe au lait for ridiculous low price of $6 for both of us (Dave went up for more). Did a 2 hr St. Louis Cemetry tour (our quide was a retired park ranger) sadly only 3 people on tour (great for us it was like having a private tour) worth every cent of $15. Lunch at Cafe Masperos (decatur) hugh roast beef sandwich with gravy and fries for $6. Decided to go on a cruise down Mississippi (already been warned there wasnt anything to see) need time to relax (I got sunburnt and had to go by 2 t shirts with sleeves for the next 2 days). It was damn hot (for us british). Had dinner at Adolfos on Frenchman - very cheap italian (recommended to us). Spotted cat again to see VA VA Voom tiredness getting to us we can only last until about 1am.

Thursday- Up around 8 am (maybe if i lay in i could last longer of a night but i cant). Clover grille again (needed biscuit and gravy fix). Shopping for presents for friends back to hotel to get changed and went to visit Cathedral and Cabildo. Lunch at Charter House cafe - superb catfish with crawfish cream sauce pasta (noticed by now I can remember every thing I ate). Afternoon walking tour around FQ. Boy all the travelling to NO and the heat is really getting to us now. Carriage ride around FQ. Dinner at Muriels - superb meal - Dave had set 3 course meal I had crab cakes then the Duck. Highly recommend this restaurant (if worried about cost have set menu ). All set to go see Kermit Ruffins at Vaughans and I started feeling unwell (decided a taxi trip away from FQ was not good idea if I needed to get back to hotel quick) Went to Fritzels European Jazz Club on Bourbon (paid 50% more for our drinks ) but had a good time.

Friday - my lazy husband had a hangover so I went to Clover Grille on my own for breakfast (not something I would do anywhere else but felt very safe and the staff and regulars knew me). Dave eventually surfaced and we went down to the 1st Seafood Festival at the old Mint. Had a great day listening to music and filling my face with crab cakes crawfish sausage poboys etc (food again) Had my afternoon walk around Jackson Square as I said the park is quite beautiful. Dinner at Irenes (we got there at 6.45) only waited about 25 mins to be seated - shortly after the line was hugh (but that is normal) Meal was very good as usual (i cant remember what I ate )

Back up Frenchman Street to see the Jazz Vipers at Spotted Cat (do you think we like it here?).

Saturday Breakfast at Clover Grille again ( Dave woke me up at 9am i am getting tired now). Did somemore shopping and then down to French Market at lunchtime for Creole Tomato Festival - more good free music and lots of food booths ( now I am complaining that I put on 7 lbs in 15 days). Cant remember where we had lunch. Afternoon streetcar ride up to City park and then walked aroud FQ some more. Some of the street performers are very good and entertaining (go give them a good tip and remember some of them still dont have homes). Dinner at Alpine (around corner from Place D,armes it was recommended) Wished we had gone eleswhere on our last night , food was quite cheap but nothing special. Headed up to Frenchman Street, which by the way is buzzing with all sorts of bars (more open then when we visited last April) went to Blue Nile about 9.15 to see Kermit Ruffins but it was not open yet so we went to the Spotted Cat while it opened and we ended up staying there - by 11.30 (i know the night is just begining) we were finally exhausted.

We didnt want to leave N.O. but had spoilt it for ourselves by wearing ourselves out travelling before we got there.Next time DIRECT flight. I didnt get to the Garden District or Wednesday at the square and so many other places I wanted to visit. It may not be everyones idea of a good holiday but we has a fantastic time.

To anyone who is thinking of going the FQ is a beautiful place. Go eat some great food and listen to some amazing talent . The People of New Orleans are so grateful for your visit and they need your tourist dollars.

There is some thing very special about New Orleans, to someone who has never been there you cannot explain it. Once you have been you are hooked. As i have seen mentioned in previous posts the FQ is now very clean as well.

To All the people in New Orleans, from the hotel staff, restaurant staff, musicians and the nice locals who stop and talk to you (and anybody else i have left out) I thank you for a wonderful holiday and some good old southern hospitality and charm. I am hooked and will definately return.

Trip report 4th June to 10th

Paulinen,

Great trip report. I am like you in that when I find something I like in NO, I go back several times. You just can%26#39;t beat Frenchmen St. Thanks for visiting NO.

Porc

Trip report 4th June to 10th

How hot was it? Despite the heat, did people till wear dressier clothing to dinner? I coulnt imagine wearing pants and long sleeves to dinner when it%26#39;s so hot and humid outside.

Was the sun really strong? Advise keeping the SPF handy?

planning a trip soon, so info would be helpful--

thanks :)

Nice report paulinen..you definitely have more energy than I do....Too bad about the Alpine...average gumbo, good BBQ shrimp, but the rest is subpar...gone downhill a bit over the years. Even Pere Maspero would have been better and even better to people watch for something close by to Jackson Square. Please return soon...we are better people and hosts with vistors like you.

Hi F12,

Definately take a sunscreen, I would say about factor 10, the rays are very strong. It was probably only about 88-90, it was the humidity that drained us, but in fairness we were already tired from the journey. Yes you can dress up for dinner. I took dress and pants with dressy tops and also some casual for when I went to places like coops and donnas. Its entirely up to you.